Three Cities, One Journey: Kathmandu, Pokhara and Chitwan

There is a reason almost every first-time visitor to Nepal ends up in the same three places. Kathmandu, Pokhara and Chitwan are not just the country's most famous destinations; together they are a crash course in how varied this small country is. And they are connected by roads that make a natural loop.

Kathmandu: the living museum

Kathmandu is overwhelming at first. The traffic, the dust, the noise. Then you step through a doorway into a courtyard with a centuries-old stupa, pigeons scattering, an old man spinning a prayer wheel, and the city rearranges itself in your mind. The valley holds seven UNESCO World Heritage monument zones within a short drive of each other. Give it at least two or three days.

Pokhara: the exhale

After Kathmandu, Pokhara feels like someone turned the volume down. Phewa Lake reflects the Annapurna range on still mornings, paragliders drift down from Sarangkot, and the lakeside is made for slow breakfasts. It is the gateway to the Annapurna treks, but plenty of people come simply to sit still for a few days.

Chitwan: the wild south

Chitwan is a different Nepal altogether. Flat, warm and green, the Terai is where the Himalayan rivers finally spread out. Chitwan National Park is home to greater one-horned rhinos, gharial crocodiles and hundreds of bird species. Jeep safaris, canoe trips and jungle walks bring you surprisingly close.

The loop

Kathmandu to Chitwan, Chitwan to Pokhara, Pokhara back to Kathmandu. Each leg is roughly five to eight hours on the road, and each is interesting in its own right. With a car you can break the journey where you like, spend an extra night where you feel at home, and skip the bus-station scramble entirely.

How long to allow

A comfortable loop takes eight to ten days: three in Kathmandu, two or three in Chitwan, three in Pokhara, plus the driving days. It can be done faster, but the road rewards those who do not rush it.